The dream of a more natural future

A shoe that can be resoled
It is rare in a slipper, but Klitmøller is built so that the outsole can easily be replaced. The crepe rubber sole is the part that wears first, and when it has gone, a cobbler can put a new one on rather than the shoe becoming waste. That places demands on the rest of the construction - there has to be something to build on - and it is one of the reasons the midsole and insole are vegetable-tanned leather rather than foam or board.

The layers in the sole
At the very bottom of the slipper's sole is the crepe rubber, soft and shock-absorbing, giving a different footfall from a hard rubber sole. Next comes a midsole in vegetable-tanned leather, which is what gives the shoe its shape and holds it. The top layer of the sole is an insole in the same vegetable-tanned leather, which takes up moisture from the foot during the day and releases it again when you are not wearing the shoe.

Wide toe box and flat footbed
The insole is flat, with no built-in arch support. That is a deliberate choice at Duckfeet: the toes are allowed to spread, and the foot moves as it wants to. The fit is medium to wide.

If you need arch support, you can put your own insoles in - the flat footbed means most insoles and orthotic footbeds will fit.

The wool lining
The lining is European sheep's wool. Wool holds the warmth without turning clammy, because the fibres can take up moisture without feeling wet - which is why a wool-lined shoe rarely becomes as heavy and damp as a synthetically lined one.

The leather itself
The Choco colour is a deep, saturated brown with a soft, grainy surface that catches the light unevenly and therefore looks alive rather than flat. It is Terracare leather made in Germany, 2.5 mm thick and full-grain, meaning the grain surface is kept as it is rather than being sanded down.

It is the kind of leather that takes on a patina - the tone deepens and grows more uneven where the shoe bends, and that is meant as a quality and not as wear.

Looking after them
Leather needs feeding at regular intervals. A thin layer of leather cream or shoe cream a couple of times a season is enough - little and often rather than a lot and rarely. Let the cream sit for a few minutes and buff with a soft cloth afterwards. Remember the edges and the seams.

If the shoes get dirty, wipe them with a damp cloth, let them dry completely, and treat the leather afterwards. Never on the radiator - that heat dries the leather out and makes it porous.

One quirk of crepe rubber: it stiffens in the cold. Used indoors you will not notice it, and if the shoes have been standing somewhere cold, they soften again with wear. Avoid contact with solvents, which break the rubber down.

Three pegs, six leaves
The base has three pegs, and they are not the same length. The shortest takes one leaf, the middle one two and the tallest three. The leaves are shaped as leaves, with a fine vein printed on the side, and they come in two colours - the brown ones in the cork's own tone and the green ones dyed through.

For a child of eighteen months the first task is a practical one: getting the block onto the peg. It is harder than it looks, and that is exactly what trains the grip. The numbers come later, when the child starts to notice that one peg takes more than another.

The child does the correcting
If the child tries to put a fourth leaf on the tallest peg, it will not go - there is no room. Nobody has to say anything. The mistake shows itself, and the child can put it right without having done anything wrong.

That principle is called "control of error", and it is one of the cornerstones of Montessori teaching: the material is built so that it tells you itself whether the answer is right. That is why we call the toy Montessori-inspired - not because it carries a seal, but because that is how it is designed.

More happens than counting
While the blocks go on, there is something to talk about. What colour is that one? How many now? Which peg has the most? It is often in small exchanges over a piece of toy that the words arrive - and they arrive more easily when the child has something in their hands at the time.

Why cork
Cork is light and soft, so the blocks fall without making a noise or doing any damage when the tower topples. The surface is textured without being rough and feels warmer to the touch than wood - a different feel in the hand from most of the other materials in a toy box.

Cork is the bark of the cork oak. It is stripped from the trunk every few years, and the bark grows back - the tree is not felled. It is one of the few raw materials harvested from a living tree without the tree being lost.

From 18 months
The manufacturer states the toy from 18 months. It is worth following: the age relates to the size of the blocks and to what a child at that stage can manage with their hands.

Looking after it
Cork does not take being left in water. Wipe dirt off with a damp cloth rather than rinsing the blocks, and let them dry before putting them away. Store the toy indoors and out of direct sunlight - over time, sunlight makes cork fade and turn brittle. Avoid cleaning products containing abrasives.

First a tractor, then a tower
The blocks sit loosely on two pegs on the base, and that is where the play is. They can be stacked in the order they came in or in a completely different one, and shared between the two pegs however the child likes - and for a child of eighteen months, getting the block onto the peg is a task in itself. Once the tower is up, the tractor can be pushed along, and then the whole thing falls over and you start again.

Frieda the fox is printed on one of the blocks, and she is there for a reason: once there is a character in a toy, the tractor is no longer just a tractor but a tractor with a driver who is going somewhere. That is what gets a two-year-old talking while she plays.

The cork tyres are what you notice
Cork is light, soft and sound-absorbing, and that is why the tractor does not clatter across a wooden floor the way plastic wheels do. It is also a material children respond to with their fingers - the surface is textured without being rough, and it feels warmer to the touch than wood.

Where the cork comes from
Cork is the bark of the cork oak. It is stripped from the trunk every few years, and the bark grows back - the tree is not felled. It is one of the few raw materials harvested from a living tree without the tree being lost.

From 18 months
The manufacturer states the tractor from 18 months. It is worth following: the age relates to the size of the blocks and to what a child at that stage can manage with their hands.

Looking after it
Cork does not take being left in water. Wipe dirt off with a damp cloth rather than rinsing the tractor, and let it dry before putting it away. Store it indoors and out of direct sunlight - over time, sunlight makes cork fade and turn brittle. Avoid cleaning products containing abrasives.

Wheat, not watts
A wheat bag behaves differently from an electric heat pad. The electric one holds a fixed temperature for as long as it is plugged in, and it cannot go further than the cord reaches. A wheat bag does the opposite: it is warmed once, it is at its warmest to begin with and cools gradually over half an hour or so - and it can be taken along to wherever you happen to be sitting.

The warmth is a different kind, too. Wheat grains take up moisture from the air and release it again when heated, so the warmth feels soft and slightly damp rather than dry. And because the grains are loose, the bag settles right against a shoulder or the small of the back, where a firm pad would sit proud and bulge.

It works the other way round as well
Put the bag in a bag and leave it in the freezer for an hour, and you have the opposite: a cool, mouldable pad for warm summer nights or a stiff neck. It is the same bag - it just gets treated in reverse.

Linen and wheat
The cover is sewn in linen, one of the few materials that grows softer the more it is used and washed, and that is at the same time strong enough to go into the oven again and again. Inside lies KRAV-certified organic wheat, grown in Sweden. The bag is sewn in Sweden too.

How to warm it
In the microwave: 2-3 minutes at 750 watts.
In a conventional oven: 10-15 minutes at 125 degrees. The fabric must not touch the sides or the heating elements of the oven.

Important safety information
A wheat bag must not be overheated. The material is not flame resistant, and heating it for too long - or heating it again while it is still warm - can make the grains begin to smoulder from the inside. Always let the bag cool down completely before warming it again, and keep to the times above. Do not leave the oven or the microwave while the bag is heating, and do not leave it in a bed you are sleeping in.

Washing
The cover comes off and is washed at 60 degrees. The wheat bag itself must not go in water - wet grains go mouldy and cannot be dried out properly again.

Conditioner belongs in the lengths, not on the scalp
It is the most common mistake with conditioner, and it is easy to see why: you wash the whole head with shampoo, so why not condition the whole head too? Because the two products have different jobs.

The scalp produces sebum of its own, and that sebum travels down the hair by itself. The ends never get much of it, because they are furthest away and oldest at the same time - a shoulder-length hair has been on your head for two to three years and has been through everything that happened in that time.

Conditioner is made to give the ends what the sebum never reaches them with. Put it on the scalp and you gain nothing, but you do get flat hair at the roots. So start at around ear level and work downwards.

What makes a conditioner a conditioner
The active ingredient is called distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, and it belongs to a group known as esterquats. It carries a positive charge, while wet, worn hair carries a negative one - and the damaged places on the hair are the most negatively charged of all.

The conditioner therefore finds its own way to where the hair needs it most, and settles there. That is the whole principle behind conditioner, and it is why you can feel the difference straight away.

Alongside it come organic shea butter, the rich part of the formula and the part that goes to the dry ends, plus low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and aloe vera.

How to use it
Squeeze the excess water out of your hair first - conditioner applied to soaking wet hair is diluted before it can do anything. Work it through from ear level down, leave it for a minute or two, and rinse. Those two minutes are not a formality; they are the time it takes for the ingredients to arrive and settle.

The scent
Rosemary, lavender and geranium with sweet orange and vetiver. It is the same scent family as in Hyaluronic Hydrating Shampoo, which is a deliberate choice on Evolve's part - use the two together and the scent builds on itself instead of clashing.

Worth knowing
 

• The conditioner contains six declarable fragrance allergens from the essential oils: limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, pinene, citronellol and citral. That is one more than in the shampoo, which does not contain citral.
• For normal to dry hair.

What hyaluronic acid does in a shampoo
Hyaluronic acid is best known from skincare, where it binds water in the skin. In hair it works on the same principle but under different conditions: a shampoo gets rinsed out again, so the contact time is short. That is why Evolve uses hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight.

The smaller fragments settle onto the hair more readily and stay there once the rest is rinsed away, and they are what holds the moisture after washing. It is also the reason the molecular weight is singled out on the bottle - that is not marketing, it is what decides whether the ingredient does anything at all in a product that gets rinsed off.

The guar polymer is what detangles - and it replaces the silicone
What you notice first is rarely the hyaluronic acid. It is the guar polymer, drawn from the guar bean, which carries a positive charge while a wet hair strand carries a negative one. It therefore settles evenly around each individual strand and lays the outer cuticle flat.

The result is less friction between the hairs, so the brush glides through instead of tugging - and the less you tug at wet hair, the less it breaks.

This is precisely the work silicones normally do in a shampoo. Here the slip comes instead from a polymer that is plant-based and biodegradable - and that does not build up in the hair over time.

How to wash with it
Massage the shampoo into wet hair and scalp, and rinse thoroughly. If your hair is very dirty or you have used styling products, wash twice - the first wash cleans, the second conditions. Rinse for longer than you think is necessary; shampoo residue is a more common cause of flat hair than the product itself.

The scent
Rosemary, sweet orange, geranium, vetiver and lavender. The vetiver is what gives the dry, earthy base beneath the fresh notes, and it is the reason the scent is not sweet the way an ordinary shampoo is. It comes entirely from essential oils.

Worth knowing
 

• The shampoo contains five declarable fragrance allergens from the essential oils: limonene, linalool, pinene, linalyl acetate and citronellol.
• For normal to dry hair. If your scalp gets very oily, there are better choices in the range.

Why hands are harder than the face
The back of the hand has far fewer sebaceous glands than the face, and it is the sebum that forms the film that retains moisture. At the same time, the hands are the skin that most often encounters water, soap, and sanitizer. Every wash removes a bit of the film, and if it is not rebuilt, the skin becomes tight, rough, and eventually cracked. This is why hands can be in bad shape during a period when the rest of the skin is fine - and why a hand cream needs to do something different than a face cream.

What is in the cream
 

• Ceramides. Ceramide NP is one of the lipids the skin barrier itself is made of. Added from the outside, they support the barrier's ability to retain moisture.
• Shea butter and murumuru butter. Two rich plant butters that form a layer on the surface. Murumuru comes from an Amazonian palm and is among the most saturated plant fats available.
• Bio-retinol from Bidens Pilosa. Evolve's own name for a plant extract used instead of retinol. It is not vitamin A - see the questions below.
• Sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, and linseed oil. Light oils that make the cream smooth to distribute without leaving the hands greasy.

How to use it
Massage it into the hands, and use a little extra in the areas that get the driest - typically the knuckles and around the cuticles. The best time is right after washing your hands, while the skin is still slightly damp, because then the cream settles on top of the water instead of having to replace it. Use daily.

The scent
Mandarin, rose geranium, ylang ylang, and vanilla. It comes from the essential oils in the formulation, and no perfume is added on top - something you can see on the ingredient list, where there is no Parfum listed. The fragrances declared at the bottom of the list are the substances the oils themselves naturally contain.

Good to know
 

• The cream contains eight declarable fragrances from the essential oils: limonene, linalool, citral, citronellol, geraniol, benzyl salicylate, farnesol, and benzyl benzoate. If you are known to be sensitive to fragrances, try it on a small area first.
• The bio-retinol is not vitamin A, so the cream requires neither sun protection nor a build-up phase, and it can be used all year round.
• Since the product does not contain vitamin A, it can be safely used by pregnant and breastfeeding women.

Why retinal and not retinol
The skin cannot use Vitamin A in the form it is in the bottle. It must first be converted into retinoic acid, and this conversion happens in steps: retinol becomes retinal, and retinal becomes retinoic acid. A product with retinol must therefore go through both steps. A product with retinal starts halfway down the chain.

This is the reason why retinal products are usually formulated in significantly lower concentrations than retinol products. Here it is 0.03%. That number might look small next to the 0.3 or 0.5% you encounter on a retinol bottle - but the two numbers cannot be directly compared, precisely because the molecule is not at the same place in the chain.

The encapsulation is the second approach. Retinal is sensitive to light and oxygen, and it is also the type of molecule that causes the most disturbance in the skin if it gets it all at once. By encapsulating it, two things are achieved: it keeps better in the bottle, and it is gradually released into the skin instead of in one hit.

What else is in the bottle:
 

• Bakuchiol, 0.5%. A plant extract from Psoralea corylifolia, which in recent years has become a regular companion to Vitamin A in skincare. Here it is included as a complement to the retinal, not as a replacement for it.
• Peptides. Short chains of amino acids used in skincare products focusing on the firmness and elasticity of the skin's appearance.
• Rose water. The serum's water phase is built on rose water rather than regular water. This is also what you can smell when you open the bottle.

How to use it

1. Cleanse your face and pat it dry.
2. Take 2-3 drops in the palm of your hand and distribute them over your face and neck. Avoid the area right next to the eyes.
3. Let it absorb for a minute, and apply your night cream on top.
4. Use sunscreen in the morning. Vitamin A makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, and this also applies the day after.

Start slowly
If you are new to Vitamin A, start with two to three evenings a week for the first couple of weeks, and then increase if the skin responds well. Many experience a little dryness or flaking in the beginning - this is common and usually settles down. If the skin remains irritated, take a break for a few days and resume with longer intervals.

Do not use it on the same evening as acids (AHA/BHA) or other Vitamin A products, unless your skin therapist has advised otherwise.

What to expect along the way
For the first two weeks, you should probably not expect to see changes - you might even see a bit of the opposite of what you hoped for. A little dryness, maybe a bit of flaking around the nose and mouth. This is the skin getting used to the Vitamin A - and don't worry, it settles down on its own. At four to six weeks of use, visible things typically begin to happen. The surface becomes more even to look at, and makeup sits nicer because there are fewer uneven areas to put it on top of. After two to three months, the results will begin to be more prominent, and fine lines will appear less distinct. Unfortunately, skincare products with Vitamin A are not products you can evaluate after just one month.

Good to know

• The serum is not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is the manufacturer's own recommendation, and it is worth following.
• The product contains perfume, including the declarable fragrance allergens citral, citronellol, cinnamal, eugenol, geraniol, limonene and linalool. If you are known to be sensitive to fragrances, try the product on a small area first.
• Store the bottle in a dry place and out of direct sunlight. Vitamin A is best kept in the dark.

Three products, two times of day
This is not three isolated products in a box. It is a routine divided across the day:
 

• Evening: Cleanse - Night Essence - Lifting Eye Gel
• Morning: Lifting Eye Gel - Rose Rejuvenating Face Cream - sunscreen

The reason for the division is the essence. It contains retinol and fruit acids, which make the skin more sensitive to light, and therefore it belongs in the evening.

The evening: the essence
Rose Exfoliating Night Essence is a liquid leave-on essence, meaning a step between cleansing and cream. It contains AHA fruit acids, the milder PHA gluconolactone and retinol, together with sodium hyaluronate, rose water and witch hazel.

AHA loosens dead skin cells on the surface. PHA has larger molecules and therefore penetrates more slowly and more gently. Retinol works over time on skin renewal. The combination is the reason the skin feels smoother in the morning - and the reason you have to take it easy in the beginning.

The morning: the cream
Rose Rejuvenating Face Cream is a nourishing day cream for normal and dry skin, with Centella Asiatica, calendula and blueberry extract. 77% of the ingredients are organic calculated according to ISO 16128.

The eye gel - both times
Lifting Eye Gel is the actual reason the set exists: we do not sell it separately.

It is an ultra-light, non-oily gel in a roll-on, which is applied from the inner to the outer corner of the eye. The rollerball is cool, which most people notice immediately in the morning. The key ingredients are eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis) and Kigelia africana, in a base of aloe vera and glycerine.

It is both dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested - meaning evaluated for use around the eyes, not just on the skin in general.

Start slowly
If you are new to retinol and acids, use the essence every second or third evening for the first week or two, and then increase the frequency. Stinging, slight redness or minor flaking at the beginning is common, but it should subside.

Sunscreen the day after is not optional. Retinol and fruit acids make the skin more sensitive to the sun, and without sun protection, you are working against yourself. If the set is a gift, it is worth passing this on - the recipient does not necessarily know the products.

Why the two go well together
The gel and the serum each solve their own task, and they do so in different phases.
 

• The gel is water-based. It absorbs quickly and adds moisture along with Cica and ginseng. However, water-based products evaporate if they are not kept in place.
• The serum is oil-based, with rosehip seed oil. Oil absorbs more slowly and forms a layer on the surface. Applied on top of the gel, it slows evaporation, keeping the moisture in the skin for longer.

If you only use the gel, the moisture disappears faster. If you only use the serum, there is less moisture to retain. That is the whole logic behind using them together.

How to use them
 

1. Cleanse your face and leave the skin slightly damp.
2. Apply the gel. Wait a moment for it to absorb.
3. Apply the serum on top - a few drops are enough.

Morning and evening, or only in the evening if the skin is oily.

The antioxidants
Both products contain The Organic Pharmacy's antioxidant blend, including alpha lipoic acid, DMAE, and MSM. The difference lies in the base: the gel delivers them in water, the serum in oil. Some antioxidants are water-soluble, others fat-soluble, and the two formulations therefore cover each part.

About moisture retention
The Organic Pharmacy states that both products have been tested for transepidermal water loss - i.e., how much moisture the skin releases. The gel measured a reduction of 15.6% after 28 days, the serum 5.8%.

How far does 15 ml go
A 15 ml bottle typically equals four to six weeks of use with daily application of both products. This is enough to feel whether the routine suits your skin before investing in the full size.

From the Everyday Table to Campfire Meals
If you are looking for a durable, timeless and functional eating bowl, this steel bowl from Danish SteelMate can be bought as a single piece.

Featuring a diameter of 17 cm and a height of 5.5 cm, the bowl offers the perfect balance and depth for everyday dining – whether it's morning porridge at the dinner table, hot soup on a picnic, or a hearty meal by the campfire on a hike.

304 (18/8) Stainless Steel Quality
The bowl is made from 304 stainless steel, also known as 18/8. It is the grade used for professional kitchen equipment and industrial sinks, chosen for its resistance to acid and salt.

The non-porous steel does not react with food, meaning the bowl will neither impart a metallic taste nor absorb rich colours and odours from seasoned dishes such as soup, stews or berries.

Space-Saving Design and Easy Cleaning on the Go
Steel bowls are resistant to impacts and hard knocks, and they hold up to being packed away and brought along.

The shape of the bowl makes it easy to stack several tightly together, taking up minimal space – whether you want to save room in your kitchen cabinet at home or pack your backpack for an outdoor trip.

The completely smooth surface makes cleaning straightforward: at home it is dishwasher safe, while on hikes or at the campsite it is quick to rinse and wipe clean – even when you only have limited water available.

Buy Singly or as a Set
The bowl is sold here as a single piece, so you can top up an existing set or put together exactly the number that suits your household. If you need several, the set of 4 works out cheaper per bowl.

The Durable Choice for Soup and Pasta
If you are looking for a hard-wearing and functional deep plate, this deep steel plate from Danish SteelMate can be bought as a single piece.

Featuring a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of 3.8 cm, this model stands apart from flat plates by being specifically suited for liquid and hearty dishes such as soups, stews, pasta, and kids' breakfasts, where raised edges prevent spills.

304 (18/8) Stainless Steel Quality
The plate is manufactured from 304 stainless steel, also known as 18/8 steel. This designation refers to the composition of 18% chromium and 8% nickel, giving the material its high corrosion resistance.

Built for Everyday Wear and Outdoor Life
Deep stainless steel plates are exceptionally sturdy and long-lasting. They withstand heavy handling from both young children and adults, making them perfect for busy everyday routines.

The stackable design ensures that the plates take up minimal space in your kitchen cabinet or drawer – even when you own several. Their high durability also makes the plate ideal for outdoor living, picnics, holiday homes, and camping, where you need dinnerware that can be packed into a backpack without risking chips or cracks.

Buy Singly or as a Set
The plate is sold here as a single piece, so you can top up an existing set or put together exactly the number that suits your household. If you need several, the set of 4 works out cheaper per plate.

Durable Stainless Steel Dinner Plate
If you are looking for a hard-wearing and timeless plate, this flat steel plate from Danish SteelMate can be bought as a single piece. Featuring a diameter of 23 cm, it offers the perfect size for everything from kids' lunches to family dinners – and you buy exactly the number you need.

Material Quality
The plate is made from 304 stainless steel (18/8 – 18% chromium and 8% nickel). Steel is inert in contact with food: it does not react with what you serve, imparts no metallic taste and absorbs neither colour nor odour. BPA and phthalates are plasticisers used in plastics production – they play no part in the making of stainless steel.

You can confidently serve everything from spicy curries to tomato sauces without leaving any lingering traces after washing.

Built for Everyday Wear and Tear
Stainless steel plates are remarkably sturdy and long-lasting. They are built to last for generations and withstand daily handling by both young children and adults.

The simple, stackable design makes them easy to store in kitchen cabinets without taking up unnecessary space – even when you own several.

Its lightweight construction and high durability also make the plate perfect for outdoor life, picnics, holiday homes or camping trips where you need dinnerware that can handle being packed into bags again and again.

Timeless Design for All Ages
The clean, satin steel finish without prints or decorations gives the plate a minimalist and refined aesthetic. Children will not outgrow the design, making it equally fitting for an adult dinner table as for everyday family meals.

Buy Singly or as a Set
The plate is sold here as a single piece, so you can top up an existing set or put together exactly the number that suits your household. If you need several, the set of 4 works out cheaper per plate.

Cleaning and Maintenance
Stainless steel plates require no special maintenance. Naturally, they are dishwasher safe just like your standard dinnerware. Please note that because the product is made of metal, it must not be used in a microwave oven.

One sachet at a time
Most wet wipes come in a tub or pouch that must be closed after each use - and which dries out if you forget. Here, each wipe is in its own sealed sachet.

In practice, this means you can put two or three sachets in your sports bag, in the pocket of your running jacket, or in the small compartment of your backpack and forget about them. They are wet when you need them, even six months later. This is also why they work for traveling and outdoor activities, where an opened package would otherwise be used up or dried out.

How to use them
 

1. Wash your hands if you have the opportunity.
2. Take the cup out and empty it.
3. Wipe the cup with toilet paper first.
4. Then wipe it with the wipe - both inside and out, and remember the holes under the rim.
5. Let the cup dry completely before inserting it again.
6. Discard the wipe and sachet in the trash bin. They must not be flushed down the toilet.

Why drying must not be skipped
The alcohol must evaporate before the cup comes into contact with the mucous membrane. It typically takes less than a minute, and you can use the time to pack up or wash your hands. If you feel a stinging sensation when the cup is inserted, it was not dry. Take it out, let it finish drying, and try again.

They do not replace boiling
The wipes are a solution for on the go. The cup must still be boiled before the first use and before or after each menstruation, and rinsed with water and a mild wash at each emptying at home.

What they consist of
The wipe is viscose made from plant fibers. The liquid is 82% denatured alcohol and 18% water - no perfume, no added care ingredients. The high alcohol content makes the wipes highly flammable. They must be kept away from heat, sparks, and open flames, and stored out of reach of children.

Disposal
Used wipes and sachets belong in the residual waste. They must not be flushed down the toilet - viscose does not dissolve in the sewer and contributes to blockages.

One wash for two things
Most people who use a menstrual cup end up with two products on the bathroom shelf: something for the cup and something for themselves. Monthly Wash is intended as both, which in practice means one less thing to pack when traveling.

For the cup: use it with water at every emptying. For the intimate area: use it as a regular wash in the shower.

Externally - and only externally
Intimate wash is used on the vulva, meaning externally. The vagina cleanses itself, and internal rinsing is advised against by health authorities because it disrupts the natural flora. This applies to Monthly Wash as to any other intimate wash.

What is in it
The formulation is built on mild surfactants - cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate - along with glycerin, which is moisture-retaining. Lactic acid and citric acid adjust the acidity, and phenoxyethanol acts as a preservative. It contains neither perfume nor colorants.

The packaging
The tube is made of bio-based polyethylene, where the raw material is sugarcane instead of crude oil. It is worth being precise about: the material is still plastic and does not break down in nature. The difference lies in what the plastic is made of, not how it is disposed of. The tube is sorted as plastic.

Soap does not replace boiling
Monthly Wash is for daily cleaning. The cup must still be boiled before the first use and before or after each menstruation. The order is:
 

• At each emptying: rinse the cup with Monthly Wash and water
• Before and after each menstruation: boil the cup
• When there is no water: use disinfecting wipes

INCI
Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Chloride, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium PCA, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol.